Owning a genuine, handwoven Kanchipuram silk saree is a matter of pride. With many varieties available, here's how to identify an original crafted by Kanchipuram’s skilled artisans:
Recognizing the Fabric
Kanchipuram silk sarees are made from mulberry silk, known for its smooth texture and luminous quality. There are four types of natural silks: tussar, muga, eri, and mulberry. Mulberry silk, named after the plant on which silkworms are reared, is smooth, supple, and has longer, more refined threads.
Understanding the Hand Feel
Handwoven Kanchipuram silk sarees are smooth and flowy, easier to drape compared to powerloom sarees, which are stiff due to tightly woven threads. To test, gently rub the silk between your fingers. Real silk absorbs heat and becomes warm, while synthetic silk remains cool to the touch.
Observing the Shine
High-quality silk in Kanchipuram sarees has a warm glow, whereas synthetic silk has a uniform silver sheen. Real silk reflects light at certain angles and becomes more pronounced when dyed. Authentic sarees use high-quality zari made by winding red silk threads in silver and electroplating them with gold, adding to the shimmer.
Identifying Craftsmanship
Authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees have minor variations in patterns due to handweaving. Look for places where threads were joined by hand and miniature pinholes along the borders, indicating the use of a ‘temple’ to keep the fabric taut during weaving.
Spotting the Korvai Technique
Korvai silk sarees, the pinnacle of Kanchipuram weaving, require two expert weavers. One works on the body, while the other weaves the border and pallu separately. These parts are then sewn together using the petni process. Look for interlocking threads on the reverse side of the pallu. The Korvai style creates stunning contrasts and can only be achieved on the handloom.
Conclusion
Handwoven Kanchipuram silk sarees stand out due to their craftsmanship, quality materials, and distinctive techniques. Owning one brings satisfaction that grows deeper with time. By following these guidelines, you can confidently identify and appreciate an authentic Kanchipuram handloom silk saree.